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Tutorial & Reference - Eye Diagram, Parts of the Eye, Basic Eye Makeup

Brow Bone/Highlight: Generally, a lighter color will be applied to this area; it may be something that has undertones of bolder colors used on the lid, or it may simply be similar to your skintone. For example, say I do a predominantly green look, I might turn to MAC’s Gorgeous Gold eyeshadow as a highlight color because it will bring out the greens and still allow the color to taper off. Some of my favorite highlight colors are Ricepaper and Shroom.

Above Crease: This is my “blend out” area. There is strong color on the lid and the crease many times, and that strong color needs to be diffused as it moves it way upwards towards the brow. The best way to think about it is as a gradient, going from dark to light, starting on the lid moving towards the brow. Sometimes I use a lighter color than the one I used on my lid to help fade the color upwards, other times I may use the same color I chose for a highlight.

Outer Crease: Luckily my eye was lookin’ a bit tired, because you can really make out the “crease,” which is that fold of skin/wrinkle-like detail you can see. It extends from the beginning of your eye (inside) to the end of your eye (the outside). Most often I deposit color in the outer crease, but sometimes I do bring it inward a touch, more to the “middle” of the crease. I rarely go for darkening the entire length of my crease. A great universal crease color is Carbon, if used lightly, it can darken any look instantly. Soft Brown is also a nice, subtler shade.

Inner Lid: I mentally slice my eyelid into three parts–basically into thirds. There is the inner, middle, and outer thirds. In many looks you will see, a lighter color is put on the inner lid relative to the rest of the colors found on the lid.

Middle of Lid: This is the middle third of the eyelid, and since I typically do similar styles in my looks, this is where a “medium” color in terms of darkness would go. Light, medium, dark is a good way to think of how I deposit and choose what colors go where on the lid. On occasion, I might go medium, light, dark, but not nearly as frequently as I do the former.

Outer Lid: This is the outer third of the eyelid, and this is usually where I put the darkest lid color. Sometimes I will darken the very outermost portion of it (say you split the outer lid third into half, so then it’d be the outer half or the outer sixth of the entire lid) with the same color I would put in my crease.

Upper Lash Line: It is not explicitly labeled in this diagram, but it is where your upper lashes (generally the longest ones, the ones that come from your eyelid) meet your eyelid. This is the actual upper lash line. When lining the upper lash line, many create thicker lines than the natural upper lash line, but the concept is still there.

Upper Waterline: The upper waterline is also not explicitly labeled, but it can be found directly underneath your upper lashes. If you looked up, you would see a tiny bit of space, much like your lower line, and some people line this as well. It is called tightlining, for your reference.

Lower Waterline: The lower waterline is sometimes called the lower rim, because it is essentially the bottom rim of your eye. There are dozens of people who cannot put product on their waterline due to sensitivity, and many others who struggle to find a product that does not fade or dissolve because of the waterline (and the fact that it is…watery!). For those looking for longer lasting products, I know many use gel liners, fluidliners, and some even use liquidlast liners.

Inner Lower Lash Line: Not everyone likes to put color on the lower lash line, which is space directly below the lower waterline. Some prefer just a thin line of eyeliner that expands across both the inner and outer lower lash lines. I often use the 219 brush to apply pops of color; usually, a lighter color that is similar to the colors used on the lids is applied to the inner lower lash line.

Outer Lower Lash Line: Similarly to the inner lower lash line, I again apply a thin line of color using the 219 to the outer lower lash line. There are times where I might even split the lower lash line into thirds, and it just means that there is a middle part of the lower lash line for application. When it comes to smoky eyes, to “smoke out” the look, one applies a darker color to the outer lower lash line or goes for thicker eyeliner and smudges it out around the outer lower lash line.

Upper Lashes: They are not labeled, but I do hope that the majority know where to find these (though explained earlier!). Most makeup users will apply at least one coat of mascara in either brown or black. Brown mascara is more natural and less dramatic, while black can still be natural, but too many coats or using an amplifing mascara will give you dramatic lashes (but hey, I always want these, so there’s no shame in never going au natural on the lashes!). I look up and bring the wand closest to the roots of the lashes and comb it upwards. Sometimes I wiggle, sometimes I turn the brush as I move upwards - it just depends on the mascara.

Lower Lashes: These are the shorter lashes found beneath your eyeball. I always like to give them a quick coat of mascara after I finish doing my upper lashes, because then they’re blacker and stand out a touch. The best way I’ve found to apply mascara to the lower lashes is to use a mascara wand that is not huge and burly - it is a small space, and why do you want to get mascara all over your face? Since I do not even need a super duper mascara, I may use a lesser, but still black, mascara to coat them. Look up and lightly tap the mascara wand to the lashes. I usually just move the wand from side to side, rather than up and down like my upper lashes because I find it coats them to deepen color, slightly lengthen, and that’s all I need.


Applying eyebrow pencil
Be sure your cosmetics eye pencil is sharpened with a cosmetics sharpener, then lightly scribble with it on the back of your hand to dull down the very sharp point and warm the tip.

To decrease the appearance of puffy eyes use a thinly sliced cold cucumber or a slice of raw potato and place a slice on each eye. Use any cold compress on your eyes for a few minutes, but do not place ice cubes directly on your skin.


Clear Care

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How to Apply Makeup for a Natural, Beautiful Eye Look . . .

Apply eyeliner only to the top of your eye and smudge it in. If you have fair/light skin or have lighter hair then use a brown eyeliner versus a black. A dark green, a darker purple, chestnut, and brown are all common alternatives to black liner. One of my favorite trick is to use white eyeliner. You're probably thinking, "White eyeliner? I'll look crazy!" Right? Nope! If you apply it right it can open your eyes and make you look more awake. Take a creamy white liner and line the tops of your eyes lightly. Then taking a cotton swab your finger or something else, smudge the liner so it looks blended.

Concentrate on curling your lashes; it's is a great way to open your eyes without makeup. After you have curled your lashes you may decide if you need mascara or not. As before with liner, if you are fair then black mascara may be too harsh on your face. A brown or brownish-black will fit your face better. When you take the mascara out of the tube and see that clump of mascara on the brush, do you wipe it on the inside of the tube? Don't!! Take some triplet paper or a tissue and simply wipe of the extra clumps. If you wipe it in the tube then that only causes more clumps. Take the wand and start applying the mascara to the inside of the top lashes, brushing outwards. The apply to the outer lashes, brushing inwards. Finally, apply from the root of lashes to the top, zig-zaging the brush slightly to avoid clumps. If you see that your lashes are clumping together then rather than trying to fix it with the wand, take one of those eyelash brushes and sweep it through your lashes.

Use a bit of eye makeup. The eyes are the window to the soul - so play them up (but not lips AND eyes or you'll look like a clown). Use a little foundation to cover up veins. Use a colour a couple of shades darker than your skintone up to the crease on your eyelid, then lighter above. Liner - use a little on the outside corners under your bottom lashes to make your eyes pop, but not 'past' the lashes close to the eye - a dark liner here will give the illusion of a smaller eye. However, using a liner close to the eye - but closer to the eyelashes! - on the upper eye may be easier. You'll need two hands. Careful if you have to balance the mirror. Seven years' bad luck will NOT improve your appearance! Curl your top lashes then apply a coat or two of mascara. Blondes and brunettes have the choice of wearing brown or black.Red heads can really pick anything BUT black or brown.

Get ready and then relax! Constantly checking a mirror, and fussing over your face can ruin a day. Smile, and have confidence.

 How To Match Eye Shadow With Your Eye Color

 For Blue Eyes:
1. Tried and True: taupe, gray, violet, purple, deep blue (a darker shade than your eye color makes your eyes really blue), black (mix it with bright blue for a smoky effect)
2. Funky Favorites: silver, turquoise, fuschia (brightens any shade of blue)

Green or Hazel Eyes:
1. Tried and True: brown, apricot, purple, plum, deep khaki or forest green (because they are in the same greenish family, they brighten green eyes)
2. Funky Favorites: gold, lime-green, really light green, bright purple (super modern)

Brown Eyes:

1. Tried and True: copper, bronze, champagne (soft pink with a touch of apricot), brown (for a doe-eyed look), beige, and khaki-green (lighter shades add highlight)
2. Funky Favorites: tangerine, royal blue, hot pink, lime-green (the contrast adds punch to brown)

All Eyes:

1. Tried and True (Classic): navy or charcoal base to define and a powder-blue shadow for highlighting (it brightens your brow bone so any eye color pops)
2. Funky Favorites: silver-sparkle shadow makes all eyes look edgy.